Reduce the Balsamic

Let me warn you this is a rant.

And a plea.

To every chef who thinks it's acceptable to decorate a plate with squiggles, lines, blobs of the viscous stuff - you know the one that comes in a squidgy bottle?

I have vague recollections of when balsamic vinegar first made an appearance in my life.  My mother very proudly pronounced it - "good for you".  She used to read those free health magazines distributed by the health food shop she haunted.  When I heard the words "good for you," it immediately put my hackles up. 

We were subjected to lots of food items that were supposedly "good for you". Actually some were reasonably okay but as a teenager I was determined to hate them.  I remember thinking this balsamic vinegar that replaced normal vinegar in our salad dressing was something I could take or leave.  Then I decided I would leave it altogether.

Years later my brother, (a confirmed Italophile) true to form arrived back with the Rolls Royce of balsamic and convinced me to taste it.  It was passable served on strawberries but at the price €16 for about 2ml it would probably want to be.

Anyway, to cut to the chase.  I returned recently from a short break in France.  My overwhelming memory will be balsamic vinegar.  Why? Because every middle of the road brasserie decorated their plates with it.

The above crêpe had in a really good little crêperie was spoiled completely, by not only having the stuff liberally dressing the salad leaves, but even dribbled over the egg for heaven's sake.  Served with Normandy cider it clashed like Bay City Roller tartan with pink ribbons dangling from it.

A duck breast cooked to perfection (very pink) and tasty had a vile balsamic reduction jus fighting nine rounds with it.  The balsamic won.

A starter of deep fried goat's cheese (yes this was the starter common to almost every restaurant) had not only balsamic decor but orange segments to boot.  And they say France is the culinary capital of the world.

So if you are a chef dump the balsamic in the same place as white pepper, salad creme, hundreds and thousands and every other naff 70's type food condiment.  Because let's face it to use the stuff that costs more per litre than Chateau Petrus is unlikely to happen and the rest of it is a vast EU pile of acidic mediocrity .

Two Star Lunch

I was so excited to have lunch recently in Le Parc, a 2 star Michelin restaurant owned by Franck Putelat while visiting my son in France.  We flew into Carcassonne in the south and by the time we landed were more than ready to eat.

The restaurant is very chic with minimalist decor but they are currently building on rooms, so there was a bit of disturbance for which they had a sign apologising.


The lunch menu was €35 including a glass of wine.



We enjoyed a glass of rosé while the amuse buche were brought out.  They included foie gras macarons, crisped chorizo and pear, a carrot pureé gel and a type of savoury brioche with ham and cheese.  I am not a fan of foie gras and could not get excited about the combination of salty, savoury in a sweet macaron. Nor was I keen on the carrot pureé.  However, I loved the crispy chorizo and pear combination and the brioche.

Carrot, macaron and pear chorizo

Savoury brioche

The starter was a yellow courgette topped with an aubergine pâté and crispy prawns.  It was really delicious - light, tasty and a surprisingly generous portion. 

Crispy prawns on yellow courgette

The main, a slow cooked veal hock that had the texture of really tender, pulled pork with some of the marrow.  It was topped with a crispy pastry.  The potatoes and a selection of root vegetables had been slow cooked in the veal stock. The vegetables had a slightly "overcooked" flavour in my opinion. 

Jarret de veau

Pear crumble

The dessert -  pear crumble was sublime with poached pear and a really crunchy, tasty crumble served with vanilla ice cream - simple but oh so delicious.

Coffee was served in very funky if slightly impractical cups along with petit fours, more macarons, fudge, strawberry shortbreads and almond cups.

I enjoyed the experience immensely, the food was good but not great.  However, it was very reasonable and I would love to go back and have a tasting menu in the evening.

Leaving the restaurant the boys were very excited to see this parked beside my son's car.  Needless to say it was the BMW they were excited about!

Cork on a Fork

Room with a view

When the September sun shines, is there anywhere else better to be than in the foodie capital of Ireland - Cork?

And by Cork I mean the city and the county. This trip though, was just the city.  Possibly one of the best breakfast selections to be had in Ireland, is here, in the River Lee Hotel.
 
Kicking off with fresh fruit, nuts, seeds, yoghurts, homemade muesli, porridge. Delicious preserves, huge selection of breads, pastries, cold meats and cheeses.  Followed by the full Irish and you are set up for the day.



After a stroll around the city in the autumn sunshine and a spot of window shopping in this bustling city, we were ready for lunch in the Farmgate Cafe upstairs in the English Market.  The menu showcases many of the artisan ingredients available downstairs.

















The English Market is acknowledged as one of the best in the British Isles.  It's buzzing with shoppers and gawkers like me.  It's impossible to resist the temptation to get completely carried away.  I bought Toonsbridge Mozarella having sampled some in the cafe at lunch and a big piece of Cork's finest spiced beef as well as a local Chorizo.

Entrance to the English Market

All this food shopping is thirsty work and the craft beers served in Mutton Lane were calling.  Friar Weisse is brewed by the Franciscan Well brewery in Cork city and is just the job to sooth frazzled nerves.  Mutton Lane is a charming, cozy little pub down a medieval lane just off St. Patrick's Street.  It would be very easy to perch on a high stool for the afternoon and work your way along the taps.

Mutton Lane

A very special dinner celebration was booked later that evening in Fenn's Quay restaurant - as if we hadn't eaten enough fabulous food already.  And with characteristic Cork charm they pulled out all the stops and turned it into a very memorable evening with some pretty slick cooking to boot.

Seafood platter starter to share

What more can I say about Cork? Only that it is possibly one of the most charming cities I have visited in Ireland.  The people are friendly, helpful and witty.  The food is amazing.  There are some of the best and most progressive artisan food producers in this region and many are showcased in the English Market and in the restaurants and cafes.  Cork is on the Lee but the best way to sample it, is on a fork.